The final collection was cut on the
stand by McQueen and the pieces are the last produced by him. The
instantly sold out world wide and are the absolute hardest and most
precious of all his work. I am immensely pleased to offer this suburb
gold silk brocade jacket and belt in pristine, museum quality.
Sarah Burton said of this final
collection: "He wanted to get back to the handcraft he loved, and the
things that are being lost in the making of fashion," she said. "He was
looking at the art of the Dark Ages, but finding light and beauty in
it. He was coming in every day, draping and cutting pieces on the
stand."
Style.com wrote: "What McQueen was
preparing had a poetic, medieval beauty that dealt with religious
iconography while recapturing memories of his own past collections. He
had ordered fabric that translated digital photographs of paintings of
high-church angels and Bosch demons into hand-loomed jacquard's, then
taken the materials and cut stately caped gowns and short draped
dresses. In its ornate surface narrative, that might read as a kick
against the plain and restrained direction fashion is taking, but in
their own way, the fluted, attenuated lines of his long dresses
suggested a calm and simplicity. Instead of aggression, they transmitted
the grace of the medieval Madonnas and Byzantine empresses McQueen had
been studying. For anyone who had watched his development through the
years, the references to milestone collections were apparent. The
bandage-bound heads, some with feathered coxcombs, simultaneously
called up the designer's rebel-British background and his landmark
Asylum collection while also catching a likeness to the modest head
coverings seen in Northern European medieval portraiture."
This jacket is particularly poignant as
it features angels worked into the silk. The cut is graceful yet forward and the unexpected angles and protrusions feel like art and
lightness. Truly one of the stand out pieces of the show it has been
meticulously stored and is in Museum quality. An exeptional and moving
piece.
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